A visit to Amritsar is incomplete
without a late afternoon dash to the Indo-Pak border at Wagah to witness the
ceremonial lowering of flags and closing of the gates at sunset by troopers of
India’s Border Security Force and their opposites, the Pakistani Rangers. The drill lasts less than thirty minutes
during which it is patriotism at its competitive loudest.
The event draws sizable crowds on
both sides of the Radcliffe Line. The hoi- polloi (and those not blessed with
the genes that confer the ability to pull strings in the subcontinent) have to
sit on specially constructed viewing galleries about forty metres from the
gates. The galleries fill up quickly and one must reach the venue well in
advance to grab a vantage position. (It is also necessary to factor in the time
one needs to walk/ sprint the last kilometre or so from the point after which vehicles
are not allowed). The blessed ones- on both sides, of course- can drive up to a
parking area which is very close to the gates and from where it is a short walk
to their seats.
The ceremony begins with colourfully
dressed troopers on both sides marching to the gates. The pace and long strides
are meant convey an aggressive don’t- mess-with-us message to the other side.
They goose-step before coming to a halt. The heels are kicked so high off the ground
that it is a small wonder that no soldier has kicked himself in the face or –worse-
the face of his opposite if he got too close.( As no incidents have been reported,
it must be assumed that due precautions have been taken.) Then, amid
full-throated roars of “Vande Mataram”
and “ Bharat Mata ki Jai” (“Pakistan
Zindabad” across the gates) from the
crowds, the soldiers growl, glower and gesticulate at each other in a perfectly synchronized , grandstanding display of aggression.(This is supposed to be toned down version of what it was till a few years ago.). Then the flags are taken down and the gates slammed shut as
loudly as possible.
End of ceremony.
 |
| The ceremony is a huge draw on both sides of the border. Men and women sit separately on the Pakistani side. |
End of ceremony.
 |
| Guns at the ready, two commandos stare unblinkingly at each other as the drill progresses and the flags are lowered. After the ceremony has ended, the crowds disperse quickly. Those who wish can linger near the gates for photographs. On the Pakistani side, the guards allowed the public to come upto the gate and peek into India. On the other hand, the guards on our side kept people at a discreet distance. The biggest regret was the westerly sun which ruined a lot of photo ops. |
As far as spectacles go, it is an
impressive display that attracts large crowds every day. However, that day, I
overheard a remark made by a foreigner to his companion, “It’s impressive, but what’s the point in all this?”. This got me thinking differently.
On my way to Wagah, at some distance from Amritsar, I passed a sign that said, “Lahore 42 km”. Thus, I am assuming that the distance between
Amritsar and Lahore must be between 55 and 60 km. To put it in perspective, it
is about the distance between Pune and Lonavla, less than distance between Delhi and Panipat, Bangalore and Tumkur, Chennai and Arakkonam,… I can go on, but I am sure
that I have made my point.
Does it have to be so difficult
to travel between Amritsar and Lahore that one must settle for an afternoon at
Wagah? I find the following itinerary
for a short trip far more appealing:
Morning: Amritsar-Golden Temple(with Langar)
and Jallianwala Bagh,
Afternoon: Lahore- A half-day of sightseeing, Lahore’s famed street
food early evening, head back to Amritsar, have kulfi near the Golden Temple and off to bed
by 1000pm.
A longer trip should offer even
more enchanting promises.
I think there are enough years
left in me to see this happen. Anyone care to join me?
4 comments:
Count me in
Sure-included in the itinerary are a visit to Anarkali's Tomb( a reminder that commoners should not think big), the place where Jehangir is buried and more.
You know I always wanted to go to Pakistan and you never take me seriously
Well, the situation is a little complicated at present. But you will also note that I am optimistic that, in the not-so-distant future, it will be as easy as just driving across.
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